Vietnam 2014

High on my list of countries to visit, Vietnam officially made it onto my passport at the beginning of 2014. We found this developing nation to be quite a treasure and with many charms to boast of: 2,144 miles of coastline, a rich history and heritage, beautiful landscapes, and very good food. 

We began our adventure in the capital city of Hanoi, a genuine "East-meets-West" city where French influences mix with traditions of old Asia. I love big Asian cities and was eager to explore another! No two are alike, which was immediately apparent as we drove to our hotel through the brown cloud of smog. The general absence of traffic lights made me cringe with fascination; from every direction, bikes and cars merged into and crossed intersections without colliding!

Later this became particularly scary as pedestrians crossing streets with three kids in tow. We learned quickly: not to hope for any break in traffic, but just to step out, walk at a steady pace, and watch as motorbikes zoomed around us on all sides! I had picked our hotel (Hanoi Royal View) for its close proximity to Hoan Kiem Lake and the Old Quarter. We walked around the lake, ate street food, and also had fun exploring the old shops and congested streets, where each lane is named for what is sold (toys, bamboo, metal products, jewelry, etc). We all enjoyed riding trishaws through the busy streets, snapping pictures as we went!

While in Hanoi, we also visited Ho Chi Mihn's mausoleum, where his embalmed body lies reverently behind glass, attracting hundreds of visitors daily (closed on the day we visited). (Ho Chi Mihn was a Vietnamese communist revolutionary leader who was prime minister and president of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam from 1951 until his death in 1969.) The Presidential Palace is on the same grounds, as is Ho Chi Mihn's teakwood stilt house. We also visited the Temple of Literature devoted to Confucius and saw an entertaining water puppet show, where puppets mounted on long sticks hidden underwater seem to "dance" on the water "stage".

Of course, we really came to Vietnam to eat, and we definitely kept our chopsticks busy! Treats of all kinds were savored and enjoyed: fresh seafood, spring rolls wrapped in rice paper, beef-noodle "pho" (slurping acceptable!), and many more dishes that I can't remember or describe. Our best meal was at the fabulous Highway 4, a "must-eat" destination for any visitor to Hanoi. We also enjoyed cheap beer ("bia"), excellent coffee, and French bagettes!

After two days exploring Hanoi, we boarded the Reunification Express overnight train to Hue. My kids had fun sleeping in the 6-berth cabin which we shared with a friendly local. In the morning, we watched the picturesque countryside roll past as farmers plowed their rice fields with water buffalo.

I was eager to explore Hue, the city of emperors, and fittingly had chosen to stay at the Imperial Hotel, decorated in opulent splendor and delivering excellent service. In the afternoon we crossed the river bridge to explore the Citadel, the ruins of the temples and grand palaces where the nine Nyugen emperors ruled.

Nearby, we paused beside some captured USAF planes and reflected on the fact that both our fathers had been here not too long ago, under much different circumstances.

Later we took a sunset cruise down the Perfume River, though haze and waning daylight made this a poor choice. Much more impressive, in the morning we toured the royal tombs of Tu Duc and Khai Dihn.

We then hired a driver to take us 3 hours south to Hoi An. Our scenic drive took us along China Beach (a popular spot for American troops during the war) and through the Hai Van tunnel between Danang and Hue (at 6.28 km, it is the longest tunnel in SE Asia). We also stopped at the Marble Mountains, a group of five limestone and marble hills named to represent the five elements: "Kim" (metal), "Thuy" (water), "Moc" (wood), "Hoa" (fire), and "Tho" (earth). Among them are many temples and pagodas, including shrines within the caves themselves.

Didn't we save the best for last?! Hoi An was the highlight of our trip to Vietnam, a romantic village near the ocean whose locals are fishermen and skilled craftsman. This UNESCO heritage site still retains its old-world charm despite tourism and development. Nicknamed the "Lantern City", the views over the river at night were simply beautiful, and locals stay busy in their heritage shophouses making all kinds of handicrafts (including lanterns). We had fun shopping, visiting restored houses, and even getting custom-made clothes and shoes to take home!

We stayed at Essence Hotel and Spa for 4 nights, enjoying very comfortable, connecting rooms and a welcome break from so much moving around. Most nights, we rode in to the old city to view the lanterns over the water, and to eat! Our most enjoyable meal was at the fabulous Streets, a cafe hosted by a non-profit organization that enables and prepares vulnerable, orphaned and other disadvantaged young people for careers in hospitality. Amazing food for a great cause! (streetsinternational.org) On the way back to our hotel, we had fun crossing over Hoi An's famous landmark, the Japanese Bridge.

We spent a wonderful day out with Heaven and Earth bike tours; their "countryside" tour was the highlight of our activities in Hoi An. After fitting our family with bikes, we followed our guide Lan along the streets and past the busy local market. We boarded a ferry over to an adjacent island where we enjoyed an easy ride across local bridges and past villages, stopping along the way to learn about local trades such as ship building, wood inlaying, incense making, and mat weaving.

We even got to take a short ride in a basket boat. (Wish you were there to see Abby's look when she spotted a (dead) water snake!) Before the end of the tour, we enjoyed a delicious lunch in a local Vietnamese home. I would highly recommend Heaven and Earth tours to anyone visiting Hoi An!!

What an amazing time we had in Vietnam! We take blessed memories with us as we head back to Danang. Flying away to our next destination . . .