Christmas 2011

We celebrated our first Christmas in the east in much the usual way.   Singing Christmas songs aloud in the car helped me to preserve a bit of the holiday mood, and of course, I was eager to bring out the few decorations I had shipped over here.  Fortunately, we were still able to enjoy my favorite holiday tradition, a beautiful advent tree given by my mother-in-law.  Each day in December, my children took turns opening ornaments to hang on a small table-top tree.  A Bible verse accompanied each gift, and over the course of the month, the Christmas story was told and remembered.   We also enjoyed the short Christmas program put on by Dalat, and it was sweet to watch Mark and Abigail sing praises with the other elementary school children.

I didn't mind the absence of commercialization surrounding the holidays that one experiences in America.  No TV ads flaunting products, no mailbox full of useless promotions.  Actually, walking the malls here in Penang was quite pleasant.  Arrayed with tasteful decorations and fancy trees, I was frequently wished "Merry Christmas" by strangers and was surprised to hear all kinds of Christmas songs playing.  Fresh-cut trees can actually be acquired here, if you're willing to pay an arm and a leg for them, but luckily, the owner of our condo left us with an artificial tree for our use.  It has been very nice to have, and much taller than any of our fresh evergreens from past years.  The biggest thing lacking, other than family, was cool weather.  A hot Christmas is just hard to reconcile.  I sure miss Texas at this time of year!

In early December, another expat wife hosted a fun cookie decorating party at her place, and below is a picture of Mark's creation, probably more icing than cookie! 

On the evening of the kid's last school day, we flew to Melbourne for a week-long holiday (deserving of its own post later!), but returned before Christmas to prepare.  How busy we were for those two days, filled with shopping, baking, wrapping, and laundry!  (Luckily, Santa had done most of the preparations early.)

Santa brought plenty of toys for the kids, but not much for the adults.  (Some of the things we want will have to wait until spring as they can't be acquired here.)  I just got what I really wanted anyways--travel!  That, and a few moments of peace and quiet when I can get it, and I haven't seen that for sale anywhere.  I'll settle for those hugs and smiles; they sure are good as gold!!  (Below is a picture of our beautiful, 9-year-old Christmas present, Abigail.)

License to drive

After completing a short application and paying a small fee, I was handed an international driver's license.  Apparently, this qualifies me to drive in any number of foreign countries, though no-one bothered to check that I was educated in any way with the local rules and road signs before getting behind the wheel.  And by the way, the wheel is on the right side of the car here, a big adjustment in itself.  I can't count how many times I've started the windshield wipers when meaning to signal, or tried to enter the wrong side of the car with my keys in hand!

Hearing my husband describe what driving here was like, I was already terrified, but once I decided to bite the bullet and "just do it", it was actually not that bad.  Driving for me was completely necessary, needing to transport my kids back and forth from school several times daily.  My husband has a driver to and from work, but the keys to the car are in my hands!

So what's it been like driving here?  Well, it's "oklah", after I adopted a new driving mentality.  Cutting other drivers off is the norm and not the exception.  In fact, if you can nose your car into the lane, you'd sure as better go!  Oddly, however, people here expect it and don't get upset.  Though this type of driving would seem aggressive and extremely rude in the States, people don't make a big deal about it here.  They slow down just enough to let you in, and traffic keeps moving at a steady pace.  Drivers generally don't even turn their heads to look when switching lanes; they focus straight ahead, checking their mirrors often to see if someone's coming up behind or on the side.   Daily when leaving our condo, I have to make a hectic left-handed turn onto a busy street, then quickly get into the far-right lane to make a turn.  I quickly discovered that if I waited for the perfect gap in traffic and cars to slow down, I would be sitting there all day.  So . . . I take the plunge and dart out, praying that those cars will see me and slow down, a little.  At least my comparatively HUGE car gives me an advantage in these situations; most local cars are super compact.  Unfortunately, these few years of aggressive driving are probably going to make me an even worse driver than I already was. When I get back to the States, I (and those around me) better watch out!!

My biggest driving challenge is keeping track of all the motorcycles that sneak up out of no-where. Apparently, if there is at least 2 feet of space, it's enough room for one to squeeze by, and boy, they sure do!  On either side of your car they zoom past, and often I see mopeds coming straight towards me going the wrong way.  They congregate at stoplights, and move forward as a mob when the light turns green.  It is generally acceptable to pass them on the right side, if there's room.  They like to wait in the shade when possible, and they wear their jackets backwards to prevent bugs from flying in.

Another challenge is parking.  Lanes and parking spots here are teeny, tiny (not like the wide lanes and large parking spots meant to accomodate American SUVs).  Parallel parking is everywhere, and crowded parking garages in the malls leave little room to manuver.  Most people back into spots to make getting out easier.  Also, there are always alot of cars on the road because locals drive everywhere here, even places that are close enough to walk.  Personally, I'd much rather walk, or park somewhere far away but easy to get in and out of.  My greatest fear is not driving itself, but parking!  I've been known to change my mind about going to a certain place, simply because I'm not confident that I can find a place to park.

A bit about safety issues.  First, anything is allowed when it comes to transporting children.  There are no carseat or helmet laws here.  I've frequently seen a family of at least four riding a single motorbike, all without helmets.  The biggest shocker I've seen was the day I saw a toddler riding standing up on the motorcycle seat, directly in front of the driver!  Also, pedestrians beware in this city.  Don't expect the cars will stop for you.  If you attempt to cross a busy street, you'd better be able to run fast, because there's no Texas "drive friendly" here!  Sidewalks are uneven, not well-maintained, and often with open holes leading to drainage ditches.  Definitely not stroller-friendly or accessible for the handicapped.


It's not all scary though; some things I really like!  Stoplights are wonderful here, because most of them have timers attached, letting you know exactly how long you'll be waiting before the next green. Also, parking garages have red or green lights over each space to indicate which ones are occupied.  And, of course I can't forget to mention my newest friend.  A lifesaver when I first arrived, my Garmin GPS has become my copilot; I was literally "lost" without it!  Having to focus 100% on driving left me no time to figure out where I was going.  As I've been here longer, I use it less and less (except in downtown Georgetown, with its intricate web of one-way streets), but many things still keep me on my toes.  Lanes will appear and disappear without any warning, and often animals, piles of burning trash, or road construction crews will be in the middle of the street!  I learned quickly the meaning of AWAS!! (Caution!!)

All in all, I'm managing the streets pretty well.  My mind stays alert, and my goals stay small.  As my dad would say, "Keep the car pointed straight ahead, and don't hit anything, or anybody!"

Halloween 2011

It's been fun experiencing holidays over here.  Some that are huge events (like Chinese New Year and Ramadan) are not as highlighted in the States, and some holidays (like Halloween and Thanksgiving) we've had to go out of our way to celebrate.  Fortunately for a Western community of friends that organized a fun Halloween party in their building, the tradition my kids are so used to was able to continue!

Ghouls and princesses converged on the ground floor lobby at 5:00, ready to embark on the great candy quest.  Trick-or-treating was a bit more complicated than usual, due to having to work around security scan-cards and figure out a system of herding all the kiddos up and down various elevators in several connecting buildings.  I didn't know so many little people could fit in such a tight space!  We all had a great time, though, and everyone came home with lots of loot.  Afterwards, we converged on my friend's apartment for a Halloween party complete with games, cookies, and pizza.

Fast food afar!

I was "on my own" today, with Adam in KL for a short business trip, so I decided to make everyone happy and treat the kids to a familiar "restoran", the ever-popular McDonalds.  I didn't wanna brave the one in the mall and be forced to find parking in tight spaces, so I used my beloved GPS to navigate me to another.  After driving in downtown Penang during rush hour for more than 20 minutes, I finally spotted the golden arches and found a spot large enough for my huge car!

People love McDonalds here, and the place was packed, perhaps especially so because I had chosen the only drive-thru one on the island.  It was freezing in there, which also contributed to its popularity in this ever-humid city, and I was almost successful at sitting outside, until my kids spotted the playscape.  Fun enough, but tiny in comparison to the tunnel and slide systems in the States.  Still, my kids were so excited to see one that they got kinda crazy, and I had to tell them to tone it down and "watch out for the littles" (a phrase I picked up from a friend).

My kids were actually quiet for about five minutes, happily scarfing their Happy Meals, and I was pleased to discover that the French fries are just as good over here.  I ordered the spicy McChicken, known here as "ayam goreng" (fried chicken), and wow, it was great!  Never thought I'd say that about a sandwich from McDonalds, but the chicken was all breast meat, tender, and spicy enough to form light sweat beads on my nose.  =)  Complete the meal with a Sprite and an apple pie, and I was feelin' good!

Sometimes I feel a little guilty ordering Western food here when there are so many local delights I've yet to try, but it helps occassionally to have a touch of home.  I'll be going back for more again soon!

Singapore bound!

Continuing our quest to explore the world around us, we took off to visit Singapore last weekend, taking advantage of a school holiday.  Named "Singapura" (meaning "lion city"), we were dazzled and awed by the east-meets-west vibe in this very clean and modern metropolis.  So much to do and so little time . . .

Going from the very small Penang airport (currently undergoing a facelift and expansion), we arrived late at night at the Changi airport (very modern, and complete with moving walkways and expensive stores like Prada).  We caught a shuttle to York Hotel in the Orchard Road area, famous for its world-class shopping and high-end stores.  Needless to say, my three kids in tow and my own practicality prevented me from buying anything, but it was fun to browse!

On our first full day, we acquired EZ Link cards to facilitate navigating the subways.  Mark loved watching the world zoom past and always had his face up to a window.  We disembarked at the lovely Chinese gardens, where we wandered through footpaths, passed tiered pagodas and peered in koi fish ponds.  It was hot, but we got some cute pictures!

Afterwards, we found our way to some welcoming air-con at Singapore's massive Science Center, where we spent the next 6 hours.  Displays in sound, robotics, biology, and technology excited our kids, and they had fun with the hands-on exhibits.  Our kids particularly enjoyed the exhibits on optical illusions, and the live Tesla coil demonstation was electrifying!  We also enjoyed an IMAX about baby elephants and orangutans, so cute.

That night, we ate dinner in the happening Clarke Quay area, a wonderful menagerie of restaurants and bars surrounding a riverwalk.  We cooled our heels and dined alfresco, enjoying some very yummy Mexican food and margaritas.  (After doing without Tex-Mex for the past three months, this really hit the spot!)  While we ate, we watched people walk by and observed that here, we weren't quite as outnumbered as we are in Penang.  (Singapore has a much larger percentage of Westerners.)

The next day we headed out to Sentosa island, created to appeal to adventure and fun-seeking tourists.  Attractions on the island abound, including Universal Studios, but our kids weren't quite old enough for that yet.  Instead, we began our adventures on the luge, where we rode a ski lift up a hill and then zoomed carts down a track.  Rachel rode on my lap, and the kids wanted to stay there all day! 

Next, we explored the depths of Underwater World, an aquarium with a large variety of sea creatures.  We all enjoyed the dolphin show, the touch tank at the front entrance, and riding the moving walkway through the underwater tunnel.  Afterwards, we attended a fabulous Cirque du Soleil-style show called "Voyage de la Vie".  At one point before the show started, some of the performers literally climbed over the top of our seats!

We concluded our evening with a nighttime cable-car ride from the island up to the top of Mount Faber.  It was fantastic to see the city all lit up at night, and we ate a 5-star meal at Sapphire, where I toasted the evening with a Singapore Sling.  Cheers!

Our last full day was spent at the world-class Singapore Zoo, which was designed in such a way as to allow for close encounters with the animals.  There are no cages in the zoo, and enclosures are very spacious and comfortable for the animals.  We all loved the white tigers, giraffes, and spider monkeys, though Rachel and Abigail loved the billy goats and rabbits in the petting area best.  Perhaps the most interactive animal area was the orangutans.  They were literally "hanging out" in the trees above our heads, and when we arrived, it was feeding time, so we got to stand right in front of them for a picture!

On our last night, we wandered over to Marina Bay Sands, a gigantic hotel with three towers and topped by a huge skypark.  The whole bay area turned out to be pretty cool, with buildings lit up and even a free laser/water show with downtown as the backdrop.  We dined at a restaurant with  wonderful ambiance but mediocre food.  Afterwards, my kids had fun running across the architectural Helix Bridge.

We had a fabulous weekend exploring this city, but there was so much we didn't have time to do!  Guess we'll have to return . . .

Here to stay . . .

Well, it looks like we're here to stay . . . for awhile!  We passed the 90-day mark on our traveller's permits, and since we now have our work/dependant visas, we're allowed to live here for another two years!  I'm still working on getting the student visas required for our kids, but it looks like we're "locals" now.  =)

We'll be zippin' off to Singapore tommorrow night, taking advantage of a long weekend from school.  I'll be blogging new adventures when we return!

Daily life in Malaysia

After living here for the past three months, I thought it might be fun to document some of the main cultural differences I'm experiencing, a sneak peak (if you will) into my daily life in Penang.

First, the languages spoken here are different.  Unlike in Texas, I don't hear much Spanish, though I do have several expat friends that are native Spanish speakers.  I commonly hear many other languages spoken around me, primarily English, Melayu, Tamil, and Hokkien.  Even my familiar mother-tongue English is affected by the accent and word choice given to it (Australian, British, etc.), and I love hearing its variety.  One recent example was when my shipment arrived and the guards called to inform me that my "lorry" was here!  (Penang was formerly a British colony.)   The official language of Malaysia is Bahasa Melayu (meaning "language Malay"), which acts to unify the three primary people groups (Chinese, Indian, and Malay).  I am currently enjoying an 8-week crash course and having fun practicing simple phrases.  Selamat petang! (Good afternoon.)

Living as a white Westerner in a sea of darker skin tones, I am more aware of my light skin but almost always welcomed.  It has been fun attending a local Baptist church and representing a minority race!  There is also great variety in women's dress here, ranging from fully-covered Muslim women showing no skin at all to teen girls in miniskirts.  I try to dress modestly, following the conservative approach of some of the other Malaysian states, but most styles are acceptable in laid-back Penang!  I have, however, been more aware of customs and cultures when considering what to wear so as not to offend anyone.  I wear brighter colors and less black and white, since these colors are often associated with mourning, and of course, I always remember to remove my shoes prior to entering any Malaysian home (a practice I might just have to bring back to Texas with me!)

Eating is delightful in this town, but like everything else, my habits have changed radically in terms of what I eat and how I shop.  Local food is very yummy and cheap.  Since the food is much better than I can make myself, we end up eating out about 3 days/week.  At a typical hawker center, there are 15-20 food stalls, each specializing in one type of cuisine.  Upon arrival, you sit down at a table and someone comes by to take your drink order.  Then you walk up to whatever stall you want and order, telling them your table number.  They make and deliver it to you, where you pay right then.  Typical meal prices are between $2 and $5 US.  Dishes are usually rice-based ("nasi") or noodle-based ("mee"), and whole-wheat/whole grains are few and far between.  Despite this, I am eating well and have still managed to lose 8 pounds since moving here!  =)

Shopping for food is also different.  For someone accustomed to the weekly, one-stop-shopping experiences of HEB, I now shop more often at more places.  Almost everything can be found here, with a few exceptions (ranch dressing, good salsa and tortilla chips), but they don't have everything all the time.  You might have to adjust your recipe, or scrap it altogether, for something else they do have.  Also, if you are buying pork products or alcohol, there is a separate counter you must pay at, since these items are considered "non-halal" (forbidden) for Muslims.  When I had only been here a week, I unknowingly brought some bacon up to the normal counter and felt awful when the cashier asked me to turn it over and bag it myself because she didn't want to touch it.  I haven't made that mistake again! 

In addition to grocery stores like Cold Storage (my favorite due to its larger selection of "international" foods (ie, shipped from Western countries)), I also go to local wet markets twice/week.  Only open in the mornings, here is where the locals buy all fresh produce, poultry, and seafood.  And by fresh, I mean that morning, it was swimming in the ocean, or walking around eating feed!  A huge variety of fruits and veggies await your palette, and it's been fun sampling new things.  Almost everything has multiple growing seasons and is locally grown.  Eggs are readily available, though never refrigerated.  Chicken and seafood are fun to buy, but not for the squimish.  You tell the butcher how many of what pieces you want and then stand back while they chop, de-bone, and/or skin it for you on the spot.  I always leave feeling very sweaty (it's hot there!) but proud of the fresh ingredients that I spent so little for, inspired to cook, and anxious to get everything into my fridge as fast as possible!

As for life at home in my super-condo, there's not much to complain about!  We are spending quite a bit on air-con, but I try to open windows and use the fans alot.  For air-con and water heaters, there are individual units in each room that you turn on and off as needed.  Dryers are also not common here.  Most locals hang up their clothes to dry, but I insisted on one for our place.  Ovens are also not common, but our convection oven/microwave makes cookies and bread just fine!  I am spending more time doing dishes, since our place doesn't have a dishwasher, but make up for it with inexpensive help from my wonderful housecleaner.  We are spending less on food and maid services, but more on travel (worth it!) and alcohol (also worth it, but much more expensive since it's non-halal).  I am also getting stronger arms from having to carry all my groceries up from the car in one load; you'd be amazed what I can carry!  Watching TV is possible through Astro cable, but reception is sporadic, and the DVR feature doesn't work.  Mostly, we use our VPN to watch things from Netflix or hulu.com since there are no video rental stores on the island.   Our kids have been pleased to see the familiar faces of McDonalds, KFC, Chili's, Pizza Hut, and Baskin Robbins, but there is only one drive-thru in Penang!  Food still tastes about the same, except the pizza, where chicken or beef pepperoni stand-in for the real thing.  Just not the same as pork . . .

Another main difference is the use of the metric system!  C vs. F and km vs. mile keep me on my toes, and I'm getting pretty good at typing "350 F in C" into google to convert for recipes!  Time is much more laid back here as well.  "Malaysian time" is consistently late (hard for some time-driven Americans to adjust to!), and when people say they'll show up at a certain time, don't expect them for at least another half hour to hour.  Even Starbucks doesn't open before 8:30, if you can believe it, and locals eat dinner closer to 8:00.  (We're attending a wedding tommorrow and are trying to figure out when to show up so we won't be too early!) 

Using the "tandas" (toilet) can also take some getting used to.  Though toilets are common in many places, some facilities have "squatty potties", which is exactly what it sounds like.  Sometimes there is a small fee to use the toilet, and usually, it's necessary to grab toilet paper prior to entering a stall, or to bring your own!  On another note, make sure to keep your umbrella handy, since unlike in Texas, it actually rains here.  (I'm still adjusting to the beautiful color green!)

There are many more differences that I haven't mentioned, but I appreciate your patience in making it all the way through this long entry!  I will write another blog soon about what driving, parking, and being a pedestrian is like (beware!).  If reading this has made you curious to experience these things for yourself, our guest room still awaits its first visitor!